Francis Mallmann Dishes on His Favorite Restaurants in the World
Grill masters of the world, rejoice: the celebrated Argentine chef Francis Mallmann is coming to America. For his first restaurant in the U.S., he has set his sights on Miami Beach—a perfect fit, the chef says, thanks to the city’s huge Latin community.
Three years in the making, Los Fuegos will be a part of the much-anticipated Faena Hotel project and will open in November. (The other restaurant is from Austin-based chef Paul Qui.)
As its name suggests, Los Fuegos will be all about fire. The outdoor kitchen—set right in the hotel’s courtyard—comes complete with a custom-made wood oven, an over-sized grill, and an area dedicated to cooking in ashes. Once a week, the restaurant will host a traditional asado, an outdoor party featuring whole animals, including both meat and seafood.
On a recent visit to New York, just hours before catching a flight to Buenos Aires, the peripatetic chef stopped by the T+L offices, where he shared his perfect day of eating around the world.
Claridge’s in London. They have a perfectly paced breakfast with the privacy you need that time of day. I usually get the eggs Benedict and a drip coffee. It’s a delicious and beautiful meal.
Carlito’s in Buenos Aires. It’s the opposite of Claridges—a simple cantina without a menu. You sit down and the owner just brings you what he has. One of my favorites is the reltoto with spinach. There’s a big Italian influence in the food. It’s a pastry that has spinach and ricotta and it’s rolled up.
For my mid-day Negroni, I’d go to Hotel Hassler in Rome. It’s a classic, but I still love it. I’m not there often, so when I am, this is quite a treat.
Chez Panisse. I’ve been there many times, including a few weeks ago for Bastille Day. The quality is great, and the experience is linked to the democracy of the staff. Alice [Waters] leads the service, but then everybody else is heard, and this builds up a confidence that shines in the food.
I’d go back to London to the River Cafe and have the roasted peaches with mint and the amaretto liqueur Disaronno. The beauty is in the quality of the produce. Every week, they send chefs to Italy to buy ingredients.