The whitewashed languor of Hacienda Benazuza, a luxe farmhouse southwest of Seville, belies the culinary envelope-pushing happening within. Recently taken over by Spain's cult chef Ferran Adra, the hotel's La Alquera restaurant features many of his greatest hits from El Bull, in Catalonia. The quail egg in a caramel cage that sent shock waves through the culinary establishment in 1998?It's here. As is his iconoclastic vegetable menestra, a psychedelic tableau of savory ice creams and mousses. For breakfast, tiny cups hold clotted cream slicked with sugarcane gelée; doughnuts are glazed to resemble Pop art. Try the perfectly un-deconstructed croissant. Coming from Adra, it's the ultimate conceptualist gesture. Hacienda Benazuza, Calle Virgen de las Nieves, Sanlcar La Mayor; 34-95/570-3344; dinner for two $150; doubles from $265.
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