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Trip Guide to Lisbon's Latest Renaissance

Andrea Fazzari A view from Baixa of Praça Dom Pedro IV

Photo: Andrea Fazzari

A generation after Salazar's fall, Portugal's once-sleepy capital has officially emerged from its former malaise. Experience the old-world charms and high-design energy of a city that is seducing both travelers and native Lisboans alike. Just as Lisboans have enjoyed their city's renaissance, so has the international party circuit.

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Destinations: Lisbon

Inspired by: Lisbon's Renaissance — by Alexandra Marshall, Published Jan. 2006

Hotels (5)

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    Palácio Belmonte

    The history of Lisbon itself is present in Palacio Belmonte: it has walls built during the Roman and Muslim occupations and 59 azulejos panels from

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    NH Liberdade

    The NH Liberdade portends a hip new Lisbon, with its rooftop swimming pool, black-and-cream motif, and provocative details (like the faux- fur lamp

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    Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

    The glamour of the 1950’s is beautifully enshrined in this yellow-and-gray palace chock-full of Midcentury pieces. Bonus: the hotel has some of the

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    Bairro Alto Hotel

    Located between the shopping of Chiado and the nightlife and eateries of Bairro Alto, the Bairro Alto Hotel is housed in an ocher, 19th-century bar

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    Solar do Castelo

    Quietly tucked within the walls of the Castelo de Sao Jorge, the Solar do Castelo is housed in a lemon-yellow, 18th-century mansion done in the Pom

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Restaurants (8)

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    Sr. Vinho

    Senhor Vinho, in Lapa, is owned by well-known fadista Maria da Fe; as such, it is an ideal restaurant for hearing Lisbon's unique fado music. The "

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    Santo Antonio da Alfama

    Tucked away up the stairs from the Travessa Terreiro do Trigo and down the San Miguel alley is the restaurant Santo Antonio de Alfama. The three-fl

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    Restaurante Eleven

    A sleek space in the Amaliá Rodrigues garden of Parque and Michelin-starred chef Joachim Koerper’s ambitious Mediterranean menu cemented Eleven’s p

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    Pastelaria-Padaria São Roque

    The tiles of the Pastelaria-Padaria Sao Roque claim it is the "Cathedral of Bread", but the bakery also serves up delicious sweets and savories as

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    Luca

    In the mostly commercial Uptown district of Lisbon is Luca, a contemporary, whitewashed dining space that uses Portuguese ingredients like black po

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    A Travessa

    Locals converge on this Belgian-influenced restaurant in a former 17th-century convent for lambic, abbey, and Trappist ales, and for the bull-steak

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    Pap’açorda

    Its name refers to a traditional cilantro-rich bread-and-shellfish stew, just one example of the Portuguese soul food this minimalist restaurant se

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    Bica do Sapato

    Lisbon’s hippest restaurant—located at the docks and partly owned by actor John Malkovich—serves contemporary twists on Portuguese classics, such a

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Activities (12)

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    Sé Cathedral

    The Romanesque cathedral in the mazelike Alfama district houses 12th- and 13th-century treasures from a Moorish excavation. Be sure to stop at the

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    A Capela

    The sound system is extra powerful and the crowd is scruffy-cute—intentionally so. Frequented by intellectuals and people from the arts, theater, a

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    Parque das Nações

    Droves of locals make weekend-afternoon pilgrimages to the Parque das Nações, which was commissioned for Expo on what used to be a dingy industrial

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    Museu do Design e da Moda

    In a former bank in Baixa, you’ll find an exhaustive collection of contemporary furniture (Ponti; Studio 65) and vintage couture (Dior; Westwood).

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    Luvaria Ulisses

    The butter-soft lambskin and leather gloves rival anything you'll find in Paris, but at bargain prices.




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    Lojadatalaia

    Though you're unlikely to schlep home a Knoll chair, don't miss a trip to Manuel Reis's design-furniture boutique, a stone's throw from Bica do Sap

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    ILS

    The shop's collection of well-priced vintage jewelry includes some excellent pieces from the forties and fifties.




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    Deli Delux

    Fine foods and wines (assemble a case to ship home some of the local vintages).

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    Casa Pereira

    This Art Nouveau jewelbox in the center of Chiado is the place for chocolates, fine coffee, and other gourmet treats.




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    Alves/Gonçalves

    The Portuguese society set shops here for sensual but practical ready-to-wear suits and couture gowns designed by a two-man team that's on its way

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    Aleksandar Protich

    A delicious array of rainbow-colored, fashion-forward dresses, skirts, and tops hangs from meat hooks in this converted butcher shop.


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    Lux, Lisbon

    Promoter Manuel Reis's club at the docks is the place to go to dance to pumping house music all night long with a lively crowd of creative types an

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