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Kiev, Ukraine Opens Up

200802-kiev-ss-1-article

Photo: John Kernick

Reminders of the past—golden onion domes, hammer-and-sickle insignia—are everywhere in Kiev. Yet, since late 2004, when a mass street protest ushered in the Orange Revolution, Ukraine’s capital has undergone furious changes. Western investment has brought new hotels, high-end shops, and restaurants galore. And now that the state has dropped visa requirements for Western travelers, Kiev stands one EasyJet route away from becoming another perfectly polished tourist site. Fortunately, there is still time to taste this town’s heady cocktail of before and after.

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Destinations: Kiev

Inspired by: Kiev: A City in Transition — by Brett Forrest, Published Dec. 2007

Hotels (3)

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Restaurants (6)

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    Wolkonsky Patisserie & Café

    For French pastries and desserts, there is the Wolkonsky Patisserie & Café, in the Premier Palace Hotel.

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    Kazbek

    For top-shelf Georgian, Kazbek is the place to go

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    Ikra

    Ikra, on Saksa_ganskogo, has excellent seafood, along with an oyster bar and a fine slogan: if it's fresher, it swims.

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    Babuin

    For a quiet few hours, decompress at Babuin, a bookstore, café, and bar on Bogdana Khmelnytskogo.

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    Khutorok

    Kiev's most authentic Ukrainian dining experience is situated in a wooden houseboat docked on the Dnieper. The waitresses wear traditional Ukrainia

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    Decadence House

    Among the many new clubs, bars, and restaurants in Kiev, none is hotter than Decadence House. The café and club is black inside, an Art Deco chambe

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Activities (14)

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    Tsar Project

    The bar, on European Square, is a loud, carnivorous club.

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    Taras Shevchenko Ukrainian National Opera House

    Standards such as Swan Lake and La Bohème are performed with regularity at the Taras Shevchenko Ukrainian National Opera House, a grand structure o

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    Ryumka

    The name, appropriately, means "shot glass" in Russian.

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    RA Gallery

    For Ukrainian art, visit the RA Gallery, on Bogdana Khmelnytskogo.

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    Pinchuk Art Centre

    Viktor Pinchuk, a steel billionaire and Ukraine's second-richest citizen, recently opened the Pinchuk Art Centre, on Krasnoarmeyskaya, a contempora

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    Pechersk Lavra Monastery

    The monastery began in a cave in 1051, with monks living in a series of underground compartments. Over the centuries, it expanded across many acres

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    Passage Complex

    In Kiev's center, on Khreshchatik, the Passage complex carries high-end Russian and Ukrainian fashion designers such as Alena Akhmadulina, NB Poust

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    Marki Bazaar

    In Kiev's center, on Khreshchatik, the Marki bazaar carries high-end Russian and Ukrainian fashion designers such as Alena Akhmadulina, NB Poustovi

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    Kollektsia Museum

    For Ukrainian art, visit the Kollekstia Museum, on Pankivskaya.

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    Bessarabsky Market

    To see how locals shop, there is Bessarabsky Market, in the city's center. Here, women in head scarves sell fruit, vegetables, caviar, fish, meat,

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    Barski

    For dancing along with your drinking, Barski has a terrace that affords great views of central Kiev.

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    Balcony Bar

    For a stiff drink, your best bet is the Balcony Bar at the new Hyatt Regency, on Tarasova, which looks upon the gold-leafed St. Sophia Cathedral an

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    Arena City

    Have a drink on the frist floor of Arena City, which brews its own beer.Upstairs, the club's dance floor is packed with Kiev's elite party-goers. T

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    Andreevsky Spusk street market

    The market is set on a downward-spiraling street of the same name, which since ancient times has formed a direct route between Kiev's aristocratic

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