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Savoring Sicily

200708_ss_sicily_1-article

Photo: David Cicconi

The bottom of Sicily lies farther south than the top of Tunisia, so it’s no surprise that the landscape here—rugged limestone gorges, carob plantations, and quiet farms—is neither European nor African, but something intriguingly in-between. Historically, Italians and other Europeans have retreated to this part of the island for peace and classic comfort food like spaghetti alla Norma (pasta with eggplant and ricotta in tomato sauce). But in recent years, foodies have been beating a path to the area’s Baroque towns, where daring local chefs have begun to tweak time-honored recipes. Read the article

Destinations: Sicily · Menfi · Ragusa

Inspired by: Sicily, Old & New — by John Seabrook, Published Jul. 2007

Hotels (4)

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    Palazzo Failla

    Just five minutes from the Castello dei Conti (Castle of the Counts), the Palazzo Failla hotel is housed in an 18th-century mansion in Modica Alta

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    Hotel Eremo della Giubiliana

    Located just south of Ragusa, surrounded by the carob forests of the Hyblaean Plateau, Hotel Eremo della Giubiliana is housed in a 12th-century for

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    Casa Talía

    Seen from the garden of Casa Talia, the village of Modica looks dreamlike, with labyrinthine passageways swirling down the steep sides of a ravine.

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    Caol Ishka Hotel

    Caol Ishka, gaelic for "Sound of water," sits on the bucolic Anapo River just outside the Sicilian town of Ortigia. The young owners, Emanuela Mari

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Restaurants (6)

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    Masseria degli Ulivi

    Set in the Iblean countryside of southeast Sicily, the Hotel Masseria degli Uliva follows the typical plan of a 19th-century farmhouse with an inte

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    Le Ularie

    Located in Noto’s historical district, Le Ularie restaurant specializes in fresh, simply prepared seafood. The dining room is designed in a minimal

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    La Gazza Ladra

    Returning home to his native Sicily after years abroad studying culinary arts, Accusio Craparo has earned a reputation as one of the island’s most

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    Fattoria delle Torri

    In the former vaults of a palazzo in Modico, chef Peppe Barone continues his culinary experimentation on regional dishes like stuffed calamari, bro

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    Caffè Sicilia

    For foodies, it’s worth travelling hours on dicey roads to get to Caffe Sicilia on the southeast coast for the unique cold patisserie dishes from c

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    Duomo, Ragusa

    This well-known restaurant, ranked two stars by Michelin, is tucked along a winding street in the old section of Ragusa, known as Ragusa Ibla. Smal

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Activities (3)

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    COS Winery

    While waiting for graduate school to begin in 1980, Giambattista Cilia’s father gave him and two friends a few tons of nero d’avola grapes for wine

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    Planeta

    Visitors to the Planeta Winery in Menfi do not just come for the wide range of classic Sicilian vintages like grecanico, moscato di noto, and frapp

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    Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

    When the Spanish brought chocolate to Sicily in 1500s, they also brought Aztec preparation methods that still flourish on the island, especially at

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