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Epicurean Roman Neighborhoods

200702ss_rome_1-article

Photo: Ruven Afanador

Esquilino and Testaccio may not be the prettiest neighborhoods in Rome, but here—where artists and butchers mingle with immigrants and intellectuals—everyone eats very, very well. Read the article

Destinations: Rome

Inspired by: Hidden Rome — by Gary Shteyngart, Published Jan. 2007

Hotels (1)

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    Radisson SAS Es Hotel

    Though it's a bit of a hike from most of the city's cultural attractions, the glass-walled Radisson Blu es Hotel has the advantage of being situat

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Restaurants (9)

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    Volpetti Deli

    A classic Italian alimentari (deli), Volpetti in the Testaccio area offers an overwhelming selection of meats, breads, and cheeses. The metal shelv

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    Sora Rosa

    Along the rustic Appian Way, the Sora Rosa restaurant—which has called itself an "oasis of flavor" since 1900—provides a respite from the bustle of

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    Da Felice

    In the Lazio region, Salvatore Tiscione carries on the duty of chef at this Italian trattoria. Opened in 1936 and still operated by the Trivelloni

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    Da Bucatino

    Three blocks from the Tevere River, this Roman-centric restaurant's decor evokes the 1970’s. Exposed wooden beams are situated overhead, while yell

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    Checchino dal 1887

    Checchino is a traditional Roman restaurant originally opened in 1887 by the Mariani family. Sensing an opportunity, they started the venue as way

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    Bottiglieria DOC

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    Agustarello

    This restaurant, located one block from the Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice, isn’t much to look at from the outside: a few umbrella-topped tables in

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    Trattoria Monti

    Reservations are certainly needed at this brightly lit, 12-table trattoria located one block from the Piazza Vittorio. Brothers Enrico and Daniele

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    Hostaria degli Artisti

Activities (7)

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    MAS, Rome

    One of Rome’s premier destinations for bargain hunting, MAS (Magazzino allo Statuto) is a five-story shop on the north side of Piazza Vittorio. The

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    Santa Maria Maggiore

    Originally built in the fifth century, Santa Maria Maggiore contains one of the best preserved Byzantine interiors in Rome. Along the tall, wide na

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    Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma (MACRO)

    The Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di Roma (MACRO) is a contemporary art museum comprised of two separate locations. The original museum is housed in t

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    Metaverso

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    Cimitero Acattolico

    The Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic Cemetery), also known as the Protestant Cemetery, is home to one of the largest collections of notable graves

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    Chiesa di Santa Bibiana

    Located in San Giovanni, this small, basilica-style church is dedicated to the virgin martyr Saint Bibiana. Originally built in 467, the church was

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    Mercato di Testaccio

    The Mercato di Testaccio is a real deal old-school indoor Roman market where locals come to pick up le spezie (the shopping). The market opens earl

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Similar Trips (5)

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  • Exploring Rome's Historic Neighborhoods of Ponte, Parione, & Regola

    Rome

    They boast no Pantheon, no St. Peter’s, but thanks to several centuries’ accretion of buildings both noble and humble, their mazelike streets are rife with happy accidents of space and beauty: All

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  • Mini Summer Trip Guide to Affordable Rome

    Rome

    So what if the euro is up and the dollar is down?That doesn’t mean you should skip a trip to Europe. You can still find great deals, even in pricey places. In Rome, the secret is simple: knowing wh

    ...

  • A Family Holiday in Rome

    Rome, Trastevere

    After all, what could be more Christmasy than a crusade to the Pope’s home turf?Your kids will absolutely never be at a loss for something desirable to eat. After they’ve had their fill of pizza, p...

  • Mini Trip: Rome's Film Fest

    Rome

    The annual Rome Film Fest offers screenings at the Parco della Musica, the Piazza del Popolo and the legendary Via Veneto—and the chance to see noteworthy titles overlooked by Cannes and Venice.

  • Romantic Rome

    Rome, Centro Storico

    La dolce vita gets updated as a clutch of hip bars and boutiques put their stamp on the baroque Eternal City.

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