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Eating Your Way Through Italy

Group dining at Al Convento, in the Amalfi Coast village 
of Cetara

Photo: Simon Watson

Zigzagging from Rome to Piedmont, T+L takes a tasting tour of the country’s artisanal offerings.

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Inspired by: Eat Like a Local in Italy — by Anya von Bremzen, Published Aug. 2009

Hotels (7)

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    Villa Vistarenni

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    Azienda Le Macchie

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    Hotel Mediterraneo

    This four-star hotel sits atop the city's highest hill, the Esquilino. Mario Loreti designed the 10-floor, 251-room Art Deco building in 1938. Cent

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    Palazzo Terranova

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    Hotel Capo La Gala

    Stay just outside the village at the Hotel Capo La Gala, a stone-studded cliffside lodge. The hotel has a nautical theme: porthole windows and hurr

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    Hotel Real Fini San Francesco

    A 30-room complex owned by the Fini family, whose global food empire (starting with dried tortellini) began in Modena.

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    Villa Tiboldi

    In 1996, winemakers Roberto and Patrizia Damonte bought a dilapidated 18th-century villa near Alba, in Italy’s Piedmont region. By 2003, they’d tra

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Restaurants (19)

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    Gelateria di Piazza

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    de Bondt Cioccolato e Affini

    At de Bondt chocolate shop by the Arno, Paul de Bondt, congenial, long-haired, and Dutch, was one of the original leaders of Tuscany’s cioccolate a

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    Antica Macelleria Cecchini

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    Pasticceria Gollini

    Order dense, flourless chocolaty squares of torta barozzi, a singular family specialty from the 1800's hinting surprisingly of peanuts. Enjoy it at

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    Mon Café

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    Caseificio Rosola di Zocca

    Stop by this dairy and cheesemaker for perfect Parmesan.

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    Bar Schiavoni

    Food artisan Giancarlo Rubaldi presides over Bar Schiavoni, in Modena’s exquisite covered market. Oblivious to the huge lines, Rubaldi meticulously

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    Norcineria La Sfiziosa

    Pick up porchetta at this market stall.

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    Pizzeria La Notizia

    Located in the tony Posillipo quarter is Pizzeria La Notizia, where il grande Coccia bakes his featherlight pies. Perfection, so he explains, relie

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    ’E Curti

    Have lunch at ’E Curti, an osteria in the shadow of Vesuvius, where super-mamma Angela Ceriello cooks regional soul food and her son Enzo D’Alessan

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    Al Convento

    Pasquale Torrente, owner of Al Convento restaurant, describes colatura-making (anchovy oil) with a semi-pagan glee: the fishing under a spring moon

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    Pizzarium

    Celebrity pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci reinvents pizza al taglio—rectangular Roman pizza sold by weight—at the tiny Pizzarium. To dough fanatics, this

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    Cristalli di Zucchero

    Tucked away where Via di San Teodoro meets the western end of the Circus Maximus, this Parisian-style pasticceria is a little off the beaten path.

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    La Tradizione

    Product curators Annamaria Cuomo and Salvatore Da Gennaro have assembled a wonderland of Campanian foodstuffs: San Marzano tomatoes handpicked in t

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    Bir & Fud

    If you're missing a good mug of beer in Rome, head to Bir e Fud in Trastevere. The pub is nestled down a narrow cobbled street; the patio space giv

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Activities (7)

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    Fattoria Corzano e Paterno

    The shop makes Tuscany's most exclusive, sought-after cheeses.

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    Avignonesi's Fattoria Le Capezzine

    Sniff out a whole world—licorice, citrus, tobacco—in slow twirlings of fabled Avignonesi vin santo on the winery’s property overlooking the Sienese

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    Vigneti Massa

    Walter Massa has resurrected an ancient, indigenous white grape: Timorasso. Massa’s wines have earned multiple tre bicchieri, the highest distincti

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    Agrigelateria San Pé

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    Tartufi Bianconi

    Drizzle truffled honey on slices of young pecorino at this wonderful truffle shop near Città di Castello.

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    Gelateria Latteria Gabriele

    Located between Sorrento and Naples, this popular latteria with a 1960's looking interior makes and sells cheese, gelato ice cream, and desserts. T

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    Gelateria dei Gracchi

    Gracchi looks spare—clinical even. But a just-delivered crate of wild strawberries fragrantly reassures you. So does Gracchi’s pistachio gelato, co

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