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Discovering a Hidden Paris Neighborhood: Abbesses

Martin Morrell Shopping on Rue Lepic

Photo: Shopping on Rue Lepic

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The spirit of the area that once housed Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, and Raoul Dufy hasn’t completely died. Prim old ladies, jocular bistro owners, a stray drag queen or two—everyone knows everyone in Abbesses, and unlike in Paris’s chillier, more bourgeois neighborhoods, here they say “hello.”

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Hotels (2)

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    Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

    With only five rooms, the Paris microhotel is full of contemporary art and design, and a private garden. Unfortunately the staff is micro-sized too

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    Hotel Amour

    Created by the same manager behind the all-but-inaccessible nightclub Le Baron, this hotel’s restaurant, bar, and lush terrace serve as the Paris h

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Restaurants (4)

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    Chez Michou

    This legendary drag cabaret and supper club owes much of its fame to its perennially electric blue-clad impresario, Monsieur Michou, who is the clo

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    Arnaud Delmontel

    A seemingly humble boulangerie that won the 2007 prize for Paris’s best baguette.

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    Café Burq

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    La Mascotte

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Activities (3)

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    Halle Saint Pierre

    The collection of contemporary Outsider art is a respite from the stuffiness of Paris’s major museums. More
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    Ets Lion

    Salted caramels and boxes of calissons (chewy Provençal almond confections) beckon inside this gardening and sweet shop. More
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    Spree

    Visiting American fashion editors can’t get enough of this clothing boutique crossed with a Midcentury Modern furniture gallery More
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