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2008 Guide to the Best of Cape Cod

Tara Donne The Wellfleet Marketplace.

Photo: Tara Donne

From Falmouth to Provincetown, an up-to-the-minute address book helps plot the course to an iconic American vacation on Cape Cod.

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Inspired by: The Best of Cape Cod — by Laura Begley Bloom, Published Jul. 2008

Hotels (15)

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    Cottages at Maushop Village

    The more recently built, privately owned Cottages at Maushop Village, in the New Seabury resort development, are handled by both owners and rental age

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    Day's Cottages

    A step up from camping, these accommodations aren’t for everyone; the (nonworking) fireplaces bear graffiti marks from former guests, and the cast-iro

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    Ocean Edge Resort & Club

    Originally built in 1912 for one of Brewster’s wealthiest residents, the property has 338 recently spruced-up rooms inside a stately stucco mansion. F

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    Colony of Wellfleet

    The Colony of Wellfleet was originally an art gallery and hostelry for collectors. Ten Modernist cottages with slightly worn Midcentury furnishings ar

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    Crowne Pointe

    This 19th-century compound centers on a pool and gardens. The clientele is very social (and mostly gay).

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    Cottage Grove

    The hotel's knotty-pine paneling and vintage furnishings channel a Maine camp.

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    A Little Inn on Pleasant Bay

    Little Inn on Pleasant Bay in South Orleans is down the road next to a cranberry bog, and sits high on a hill with fantastic views of the shoreline. W

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    Wequassett Resort and Golf Club

    On a sailboat-filled inlet, the Wequassett Resort & Golf Club, on Pleasant Bay, is Chatham’s other top place to stay. A 1740’s Colonial with lanterns

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    Captain's House Inn

    Captain’s House Inn feels like a village unto itself; besides its captain’s cottage, there’s a Greek Revival mansion and converted stables.

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    Belfry Inne

    In the center of Sandwich, the Belfry Inne occupies three restored buildings, including a former church and the Painted Lady, a turreted 1882 Victoria

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    Wings Neck Lighthouse

    Once run by the Coast Guard to protect boats navigating the Cape Cod Canal, the Wings Neck Lighthouse, in Pocasset, can now be booked by families or o

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    Inn on the Sound

    On a clear day you can see Martha’s Vineyard from the ten-room Inn on the Sound, atop a bluff in Falmouth Heights.

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    Crow's Nest Resort

    Facing the beach and Cape Cod Bay, all 21 bright suites at the Crow’s Nest Resort have kitchens, fireplaces, Jacuzzi tubs, and unobstructed views of t

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    Chatham Bars Inn

    The clapboard Chatham Bars Inn, in Chatham, was the first luxury hotel on Cape Cod and is still its toniest address, with prices (and a bit of attitud

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    Brass Key Guesthouse

    This 19th-century compound centers on a pool and gardens. The clientele is very social (and mostly gay).

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Restaurants (38)

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    Wellfleet Beachcomber

    What It’s Like: The “Combah,” as it’s affectionately called by Cape locals, earned its spot in the annals of destination dining when it opened back

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    Mattakeese Wharf

    The local seafood shack has outdoor tables set alongside boat slips.

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    Landfall

    Constructed with wood salvaged from shipwrecks, the structure is built right over the water. Have a drink on the deck, with the water lapping under yo

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    Sweet Tomatoes

    Fresh dough made daily is part of Sweet Tomatoes, Inc.’s recipe for a great Neapolitan-style, thin-crust pizza. Their location on Route 6A in Sandwich

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    Ristorante Barolo

    Straight out of the North End of Boston, the restaurant is a red-sauce restaurant in a hard-to-find office complex courtyard.

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    Buca's Tuscan Roadhouse

    The eatery serves solid—as its name would suggest—Tuscan food like roasted organic chicken with fennel, garlic, sage, and olives.

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    Abbicci

    The renovations at the iconic restaurant set some locals grumbling that it now resembles a gallery in New York City. But the food is still top-notch:

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    The Cape Sea Grille

    Although the dining room itself-set in a former sea captain’s house-could use a facelift, the food delivers. Try the seared sea scallops with scallion

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    Wicked Oyster

    Wicked Oyster's breakfast and coffee bar (available from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.) is one of the eatery's most popular attractions. The restaurant has hardwoo

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    Catch of the Day

    The fresh seafood at this restaurant on Route 6 in South Wellfleet comes from its very own on-site fish market. Peter and Diane Hall, who also own Van

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    Terra Luna

    It’s worth the wait for a table at Terra Luna in North Truro, where Raina Stefani serves up creative concoctions like ancho-and-coffee–rubbed New York

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    Townsend Lobster & Seafood

    Townsend Lobster & Seafood owner, Chris Townsend, runs lobster-catching tours on his fishing boat.

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    Relish

    This pun-loving destination is a high-end but cool bakery and sandwich shop.

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    Lobster Pot

    The neon-lit exterior of the Lobster Pot, in Provincetown, makes it an often-photographed spot. Order the lobster as God intended it—steamed, with dra

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    Front Street

    Set in the basement of a Victorian house, Provincetown’s Front Street is owned by Donna Aliperti and Kathleen Cotter, who can usually be seen in the k

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    Laura & Tony’s Kitchen

    With the seafoam-green exterior and purple trim of this 1970s-style A-frame, it shouldn’t be hard to find this popular restaurant on U.S. Highway 6 in

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    Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar

    Order the fried lobster tail at Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar, in Eastham—a hit since it opened in 1976.

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    Sir Cricket's Fish & Chips

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    The Nauset Beach Club Restaurant

    With 18 tables in a Cape Cod cottage, the Nauset Beach Club Restaurant in East Orleans is a tough reservation to score. Don’t miss the northern Italia

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    Liam's at Nauset Beach

    Liam’s at Nauset Beach, set right between the sand and the parking lot, has legendary onion rings.

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    Cap't Cass Rock Harbor Seafood

    Cap’t Cass Rock Harbor Seafood is a funky BYOB in Orleans with wood floors, shelves lined with old seashells, handwritten menus taped to the walls, an

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    Abba

    Abba, in Orleans, is widely touted as the Cape’s best restaurant. Israeli-born chef Erez Pinhas dips into his heritage for dishes like falafel in a ta

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    Talk of the Town Cafe

    Although it has zero atmosphere, Harwichport’s Talk of the Town Café, wedged between a CVS and a hardware store in a strip mall, sells the best cup of

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    Schoolhouse Ice Cream and Yogurt

    There are vintage black-and-white photos on the walls and birdhouses hanging in the trees at Schoolhouse Ice Cream & Yogurt, in Harwichport, where the

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    Twenty-Eight Atlantic

    Consider a jacket and tie for an evening at Twenty-Eight Atlantic, in Chatham’s Wequassett Resort, where dishes range from black-truffle risotto to Ch

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Activities (60)

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    North Beach

    North Beach is the topic of Henry Beston’s Outermost House and Tim Wood’s

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    Jules Besch Stationers

    Set in an old Victoria home, the stationary shop has a vast and well-edited selection of cards and journals.

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    Continuum

    The tiny cottage is crammed with every kind of antique lamp imaginable.

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    Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod

    It’s not Napa Valley, but during a tasting you can try some decent wines that are cultivated in the area, plus (for adventurous palates) a special cra

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    Shining Sea Bike Path

    The four-mile Shining Sea Bike Path, from Falmouth to Woods Hole, follows the ocean and runs through woodlands, marshes, and salt ponds.

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    Sandy Neck Beach

    The six-mile-long, dune-capped Sandy Neck Beach, in West Barnstable and Sandwich, is populated by more piping plovers than people.

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    Race Point Beach

    Onlookers at Provincetown’s Race Point Beach erupt in applause the moment the sun disappears. For the more athletic, bike the 5.2-mile look between Ra

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    The Kite Store

    The colorful display outside the beachfront shop makes for a popular photo spot in P-town.

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    Oolala Home

    The whimsical shop carries affordable housewares and furniture like an Offi birch coffee table for $180.

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    Old Silver Beach

    In North Falmouth, the crescent-shaped Old Silver Beach has calm waters that attract families.

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    Northern Lights Hammock Shop

    This one-room shack carries every kind of hammock imaginable, including crocheted models from Brazil and travel versions that fold up into a backpack.

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    Marion's Pie Shop

    Located on Main Street in West Chatham, this little gray cedar, cottage-style shop with a blue awning and front porch has a big customer following due

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    Jobi Pottery

    Jobi Pottery, in Truro, has been making its retro pieces, decorated with small black fish, since 1953.

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    Dr. Gravity Kite Shop

    A popular stop for visitors on the way to Cape Cod, this colorful kite shop is located on Route 28 in the village of Harwichport. The windows of the w

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    Craigville Beach

    Craigville Beach, the place to see and be seen in Hyannis, is sometimes called Muscle Beach for its concentration of buff beachgoers.

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    Chatham Squire

    If you’re in the mood for a pint and live music, head to this gritty nightspot, decorated with license plates from around the world. Local bands perfo

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    Cape Cod Rail Trail

    Built on an old railway bed, the 26-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail starts at Route 134 in Dennis and winds through Chatham, continuing north to Wellfleet. T

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    Cape Cod Province Lands Bike Trail

    For a more active adventure, catch the eight-mile Cape Cod Province Lands Bike Trail at Race Point. It passes through sand dunes and forests and ends

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    Cape Cod Lavender Farm

    In a small outbuilding with an honesty box, the farm shop sells a heavenly lavender-lemon marmalade.

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    Candy Manor

    This sweet shop serves fudge in every flavor, from plain vanilla to Marshmallow Fluff to Reese’s.

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    Cape Playhouse

    The emphasis here, also home to the Cape Cod Center for the Arts, is on Broadway musicals. Bette Davis famously began her career here, as an usher.

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    Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater

    Performances have included productions by David Mamet and Sam Shepard. Last summer, W.H.A.T.—as it’s commonly known in these parts—opened a new $6.8 m

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    Edward Gorey House

    The rambling former residence of the famous illustrator has been turned into a museum. The first floor has an ample display of his pen-and-ink drawing

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    Susan Baker Memorial Museum

    The property isn’t quite a museum; rather, it’s the atelier of the artist, who creates 3-D paintings inspired by her travels and Cape Cod scenery.

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    Gristmill Gallery

    A pair of former New Yorkers owns this Eastham gallery, which sells Colonial-era benches and chests, and paintings of local landscapes.

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    China, Beijing, Shanghai, Guilin, Lijiang

    T+L tackles one of the world's most mystifying destinations with ideas to help you plan a successful trip to China.

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    Provincetown

    In winter, when temperatures hover in the low forties, the town slows down and reverts to its historic New England whaling town roots. Though the second-home real estate boom has displaced some year-r

    ...

  • Autumn in Provincetown

    Cape Cod, Provincetown

    In fall, the throngs of tourists leave P-Town and locals reclaim the tranquillity of small-town Cape Cod life. The whale watches may stop, but the whales are still here.

  • Secret Cape Cod Beaches

    Chatham, Wauwinet, The South Shore

    You'll need to negotiate a maze of dirt roads to find Ladies Beach, on Nantucket; exploring Chatham's North Beach, requires a boat trip.

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