With travel frontiers dwindling, the Tunisian desert still holds the promise of a true pioneer experience. Those willing to endure a rugged four-hour drive over unpaved Saharan roads and through blinding salt flats will be rewarded with Ksar Ghilane, an otherworldly camp on 25 acres of olive, pomegranate, and tamarisk trees. The 60 private, 300-square-foot canvas tents are improbably equipped with full bathrooms, heating, and even air conditioning. Climb the five-story observation tower for a look beyond the mirage-like, sultry pool. Unlike conventional camps, Ksar Ghilane won’t harangue guests with a long menu of activities. The most anyone suggests you do is visit the ruins of a second-century A.D. Roman fort or try a bedouin dinner of gargoulette (a type of lamb stew), served in low-slung wool tents.