The Wauwinet’s stately waterside restaurant is the island’s most elegant, and well worth the shuttle-boat ride over from Straight Wharf. In the evenings, seersucker-and-linen-clad patrons linger over sundowners on the spacious deck, then move to the airy dining room to partake of chef Kyle Zachary’s sophisticated New American cuisine. Traditional dishes like butter-basted lobster and osso bucco are enlivened here by creative accompaniments (the lobster is paired with carrot-truffle dumplings and a vanilla Lillet nage; the veal comes with abalone mushrooms in a Bordelaise froth). Daniels also jazzes up comfort-food standbys like fish and chips (served with duck-fat fries and a creamy leek fondue) and mac-‘n’-cheese (actually truffled rigatoni with melted Gruyère, Gouda, and Pouligny chèvre). Save room for pastry chef Serge Torres’s sublimely modern desserts, which might include candied cherry tomatoes or caramelized bananas with peppercorn ice cream.