The inn's restaurant is one of the best in Vermont. It offers an extensive cheese selection; after a few days of working the curds, however, it just might push you over the edge. The austere white three-story house dispenses with the clichés and clutter of most country inns. When the inn was burned in a 1993 fire, the owner handed each of the guest rooms to a different designer. So while the public spaces have a traditional vibe, the 11 rooms go for something much kickier, with, say, mountains, Calvin Coolidge, or trout as themes. It may be silly, but the staff is still serious about service. The inn belongs to the Vermont Fresh Network, a partnership of farmers and chefs promoting locally grown food, and your breakfast omelette, with eggs provided by free-range hens, will be the shocking color of marigolds. Five minutes away, there's skiing at Sugarbush (once so popular with the jet set that it was dubbed Mascara Mountain), or try Mad River Rocket Sleds at the inn, made of recycled plastic (trimmings from garbage-can lids). You kneel with your legs strapped down and use your knees to steer. Doesn't that sound like the ideal excuse for a massage?