Veracruz, Oaxaca + The South

Tips and Articles in Veracruz, Oaxaca + The South

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London Every weekend, some of the best food artisans in Britain assemble under railway viaducts in southeast London to display their wares at Borough Market. Amid the profusion of pork pies, puddings, and chutneys, you’ll find the Golden Company ...
It’s a freezing cold winter’s day, but that’s not stopping 10,000 men in the northern Japanese city of Konomiya from stripping down to nothing but a loincloth. With the snow flying, these adventurers—fueled by honor, not by hot sake (alcohol is no...
I was first introduced to Oaxaca in a magical way. Twenty years ago I went there with my family for a vacation, and we visited a house owned by artist Arnulfo Mendoza. He came from a rug-making family, and everything in his home was handmade. Ch...
Breakfast is a highly personal matter, and even more so when you're traveling. Many people go to great lengths to find a breakfast that is first and foremost familiar: orange juice, a certain brand of cereal, toast and eggs. Others are just the op...
Housed in a restored 16th-century Dominican convent once called the Santa Catarina, Oaxaca's Camino Real is one of those rare hotels that you wish you could live in forever. Faint music--an ethereal choir of female voices--floats through quiet sto...
Worth a Detour P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center, the New York art world's favorite institution for cutting-edge work, reopened this fall after a three-year renovation (Jackson and 46th Ave., Long Island City; 718/784-2084). The once-decrepit Romanes...
Reader's FindAfter six weeks of touring Europe by car, we thought a little indulgence was in order. Serendipitously, we fell into the 50-room Hostellerie du Vallon de Valrugues, in St.-Rémy-de-Provence (800/525-4800 or 33-4/90-92-04-40, fax 33-4/9...
By 7 p.m. dusk has fallen in Veracruz, and the sticky tropical heat finally begins to ease up. The streetlamps have been illuminated, as have the lights in the grand arcades of the city hall and the cafés that border the zocalo. The bandstand in t...
Sitting in the church of San Vincente Ferrer in the dusty Mexican city of Juchitán, I watched a woman in tight jeans, a red crop top, and ornate gold earrings make her way to receive Holy Communion. It was only when she swallowed the wafer...
What's the best way to get my passport renewed in a hurry? —L.M., VIA E-MAIL If you live near one of the 13 major cities where the Bureau of Consular Affairs has a passport agency, you may get lucky and land an appointment to renew your passport ...
Inside the centuries-old church of the town San Juan Chamula, shamans kneel on pine branches and murmur pre-Columbian incantations, pour cane liquor over candles lit by villagers with a host of pleas—for health, wealth, even love—and strangle sacr...
Acclaimed hotelier Carlos Couturier—part of the team behind Mexico's über-chic Habita and Deseo hotels—is breaking new ground with Veracruz's most stylish escape. Hotel Azúcar (Carr. Federal Nautla-Poza Rica, Monte Gordo; 52-232/321-0678; www.hote...
Oaxaca today is just the sort of colonial Mexican city that elicits a barrage of tourist-idyll clichés from guidebooks and brochures, descriptions that usually include the words charming, enchanting, and pristine. It’s not hard to see why: there’...