A beautifully renovated farmhouse two hours from Rome. When we arrived late at night, the chef was still up, and he fixed us the first of many delicious meals. We never saw a menu—we just learned to trust his instincts in the kitchen. The property also has an equestrian center, so we ventured out with guide Lidia on horseback through vineyards, ancient ruins, and the Tuscan countryside. The hotel also offers winery tours and cooking classes. Rooms are beautifully furnished and have especially comfortable beds. The staff was invisible, yet everything was consistently spotless.