Activities in Trancoso

Run by the Pousada Etnia, this shop has Osklen bikinis and swim trunks; colorful tops and dresses from Rio’s Cantão label; and a good selection of hat

The second-oldest church in Brazil was built by Portuguese settlers in 1586. Its defiantly plain façade—broken by a door, a window, and a wooden cross

Rent a car at the airport—it’s an hour to Trancoso—or hire a driver ($113) through Mangue Alto Turismo. Owner Henrique Costa speaks fluent English and

Espelho is one of Bahia’s loveliest beaches, a vivid collage of blue water, creamy yellow sand, red cliffs, and lush green forest. Driftwood and cocon

Among the diapers and canned hearts of palm are dozens of Havaianas at only $6 a pair (a fourth of the cost on the Quadrado).