Tips and Articles for Southwest France

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In Carmel, California, where my parents live—5,800 miles from the Pays Basque in France—there’s a boutique specializing in traditional handwoven Basque... Read More

A couple of years ago, François Simon, the influential restaurant critic for Le Figaro, told me that French gastronomy needed a “crisis” in order to... Read More

"This is the first year i've seen any Americans in Les Portes," Bernadette Frigière remarked as she watched the morning market unfold on the small... Read More

Where is the end of the earth?Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world?the depths of Antarctica?The frozen islands of Franz Josef Land? ... Read More

“How will you get your bag out when you reach your destination?” asked a passerby as she volunteered to lug an oversize suitcase for a red-headed woman... Read More

The concept of haute slumming is at least as old as Marie Antoinette, who escaped the tediousness of life at Versailles for the calico pleasures of... Read More

A restaurant opening in France's Dordogne Valley has nothing in common with one in Paris or New York. Instead of a gaggle of reviewers and industry... Read More

For my baby boomer sisters and me, bickering in the back seat of our parents' Cutlass Supreme, the lure of family car trips was not the destination, but... Read More

When the French talk about the sea, it’s usually as a melodramatic need—“J’ai besoin de la mer,” “I need the sea”—never simply, “I like the beach.”... Read More

“I earned my first 50 francs at the Hôtel du Palais, in Biarritz. It was 1975—I was 18 years old and worked in the kitchen; I was in school and needed a... Read More

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