34 Calle de Atocha,


Star chef Andrés Madrigal is at the top of his game creating nouveau-Spanish dishes for his 75-euro tasting menu (about $96; à la carte is also available), which starts with a series of amuse-bouches, such as a Bloody Mary with Parmesan foam served in a shot glass. Madrigal specializes in fish: snapper, adorned with beet- and sweet-potato chips, sits on a medley of tomato and arugula; a thin round of focaccia “pizza” is dressed with mackerel, olive tapenade, Parmesan, and edible flowers. The wine cellar holds 6,000 bottles and 300 varieties. Despite its central location, the dining room manages to feel private—shielded from the street in an internal courtyard and overlooking a sculpture garden.