Russia

Restaurants in Russia

A self-service homegrown hot spot. No gels or foams here at this doting replica of a Communist-era stolovaya (workers’ canteen) within the ritzy GUM department store.

Swing into this chic spot just off Nevsky for a taste of the new Russia, where the shrimp ravioli in pumpkin sauce is done just right.

The kitchen spins out its own spicy regional feast. Khachapuri pies ooze pungent cheese; knotted khinkali dumplings squirt peppery meat juices; chicken satsivi is cloaked in a complex walnut sauce tinted yellow with marigold petals.

Walls are bedecked with farming tools, and wooden matryoshka dolls adorn every table at this faux-folky shrine to the motherland. The food, however, is sincere and the hearty borscht comes with fluffy pampushkas (garlic rolls).

At this raucous, democratically priced Cossack-themed chain, the food may lack finesse, but the garlic-studded cold pork, sour-creamed braised rabbit, and porcini caps pickled with black-currant leaf are just right with the horseradish-infused vodka.