It may be a little contrarian to recommend the Main, a 35-year-old smoked-meat lunch counter on Saint-Laurent, over the more legendary Schwartz’s just across the street. But that’s the point. With a line of tourists and locals that spills out onto the street day and night, Schwartz’s is simply too crowded. But the old-school Main—with its fake-marble-topped booths and faux-brick oven—abides, serving excellent inches-thick smoked-meat sandwiches on rye with a dab of yellow mustard. Get one to go, wrapped in wax paper with a crisp pickle, and wave to the hordes still waiting in line across the street.