The restaurant has an exhaustive wine list with an entire page of red magnums. The eatery occupies an ancient stone house beside the old public laundry basin. Chef Ludovic Monier serves sucré-salé: a terrine with alternating layers of foie gras and spice bread, set off by a little dice of pineapple dusted with Sichuan pepper. For a first-course try the beggar's purse: cracking sheeets of Moroccan brik loaded with leeks, pearl barley, and three disks of fresh goat cheese served with a coulis of black Nyons olives loosened with olive oil. The lovely hand-painted water pitchers and organic sourdough bread are from a potter and a baker with a wood-burning oven down the road.