Peso da Régua

Quinta do Vallado

145

Vilarinho dos Freieres,
Peso da Régua,

Portugal,
5050-364.

This hotel overlooks the Corgo River from steep terraces, many of which were shaped by hand 300 years ago. João Ferreira Álvares Ribeiro is a sixth-generation port- and winemaker; he has converted the ground floor of the family's 18th-century ocher manor into five plain but comfortable guest rooms, with rustic painted headboards, and shuttered doors opening onto a gravel path. In the adjacent farmhouse, staffer Dona Fernanda cooks soup for the vineyard crew in large pots over a charcoal fire; the same building also houses an informal drawing room and a new demonstration kitchen where Ribeiro pairs the estate's young wines with Portuguese dishes such as rojões (stewed pork with potatoes) for his guests.