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Via Pannieri, Palermo, , Italy

Markets don't get more pungent and raucous than Palermo's labyrinth of narrow passageways piled with produce. Feisty matrons haggle with vendors in thick Sicilian dialects for the best pomegranates or tangy Pantelleria capers.

Best Bites Pane c'a meusa, the unexpectedly tasty spleen sandwich sold at almost every stall, is a Vucciria initiation rite, but the squeamish can opt for addictive panelle, puffy chickpea fritters. For a sit-down lunch, snag a balcony seat at the very un-Chinese Shanghai Trattoria (34 Vicolo Mezzani), known for its eggplant caponata, pasta con le sarde, and a raffish setting straight out of a mafia flick.

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La Vucciria

Markets don't get more pungent and raucous than Palermo's labyrinth of narrow passageways piled with produce. Feisty matrons haggle with vendors in thick Sicilian dialects for the best pomegranates or tangy Pantelleria capers.

Best Bites Pane c'a meusa, the unexpectedly tasty spleen sandwich sold at almost every stall, is a Vucciria initiation rite, but the squeamish can opt for addictive panelle, puffy chickpea fritters. For a sit-down lunch, snag a balcony seat at the very un-Chinese Shanghai Trattoria (34 Vicolo Mezzani), known for its eggplant caponata, pasta con le sarde, and a raffish setting straight out of a mafia flick.