La Cupertina

This tall, airy storefront in Palermo Viejo is presided over by the colorful Cecilia Hermann, who could have stepped out of a magical-realist novel. Guardian of Argentina’s culinary traditions—with a penchant for angel figurines—she presents a nearly anthropological display of sweets. She also makes sure that the humitas (corn tamales) and guisos (stews) on the small savory menu deliver the flavors of home. Don’t Miss Empanadota de acelga, an extra-thin sugar-dusted pastry collapsing into a mass of delicious chard and hard-boiled eggs. Follow with a dense, orange-glazed chocolate cheesecake.