New York City
All sleek seamless perfection, the creamy space that once housed Montrachet is a new labor of love for canny restaurateur Drew Nieporent and British wunderkind chef Paul Liebrandt. His high-wire cooking somehow convinces one that luxuries like foie gras (glazed with a shocking-pink hibiscus-and-beet gelée), oysters (tricked out with toasted buckwheat and nutmeg oil), and squab (served with a decadent chestnut crème) are as relevant as ever. The banquettes are beautifully curved, the sound level invites conversation, and the lighting flatters even the original TriBeCa denizens. Best of all, Corton delivers that magical sense of occasion we’re starting to miss in this age of the gastropub.