New York City

Co.

30

230 Ninth Ave.,
New York,
NY,
United States,
10001.

Who needs Naples when the world’s greatest pizza is currently baked at Co., on a windswept corner in Chelsea? Here, Jim Lahey, the fanatic behind Sullivan St Bakery, turns out jagged, faintly tangy, artfully blistered pies perfectly engineered to support their toppings without being soggy or bready or overly chewy—a feat that usually eludes even Italy’s best pizzaioli. Lahey imported a burning oven from Modena for this eatery, where patrons pay a premium for a sparely decorated white oak dining space and extensive wine list. However, the artisanal dough here is authentically scorched (sometimes too much) at 900 degrees, and slightly radical ingredients range from zucchini blossoms to béchamel with caramelized onions.