Punjabi by Nature

While a hokey upstairs cocktail lounge and nightly DJ sets draw crowds to this suburban stalwart, it’s the cuisine that really sings—specifically the raan-e-Punjab, a seasoned whole leg of lamb slow-roasted in the tandoor. Bring friends, bring your family, bring your cab driver: a whole cricket squad couldn’t finish this thing (it costs about $12). The daal makhani (savory lentils simmered in butter till molten), amritsari bharwan aloo (dainty potato croquettes stuffed with spinach, peas, and cheese, lathered in a tangy curry sauce), and mint-spiked purina paratha are ideal accompaniments. Dig in and ignore the cheesy dining room, dominated by an immense Trumpian waterfall and murals of shirtless guys in turbans playing soccer.