Proeverij 274

From across the canal, candles and lanterns glow invitingly in the paned-glass windows of this intimate wood-paneled, one-room restaurant. But the simple interior belies some seriously adventurous work being done in the kitchen downstairs. A Caesar salad arrives artfully deconstructed at the table with Parmesan gelée (jelly) cubes, whole organic romaine leaves, and for good measure, two whisper-thin slices of Italian bacon (an unusual but delicious addition). The menu is strong on flavorful game (try the venison stew en croûte) and uncomplicated desserts, such as rhubarb cake.