Described on paper or aloud, the concept of Biko could seem too complex or too ambitious: a restaurant that specializes equally in Basque and Mexican cuisine, but doesn't remain entirely faithful to either of them. Plus, it has two separate menus—"lo de hoy" (of today) and "lo de antes" (of the past)—as well as a tasting menu. Somehow, though it all works astonishingly well. Though the setting of the restaurant is formal, and the service is, too, many of the dishes that come out of the kitchen are incredibly playful in their presentation. That's especially true for the dessert course. It's hard to predict what might be available—the menu changes regularly based on seasonally- available ingredients and the chefs' inspiration—but past delights have included a cannoli-like tube out of which floated cotton candy cheese "smoke."