Taberna Laredo

Order featherlight tempura of baby vegetables highlighted with a sweet-tart reduction of sherry vinegar. It seems incongruous, feasting on truffled beef tartare and porcini-and–foie gras risotto in a plain brown joint where only a pile of fresh morels on the counter betrays the kitchen’s ambition. The ingredient-_obsessed David Laredo is at the stoves; his brother features pioneering producers on his 250-label carta de vinos.