In a century-old house across from the train station in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a celebrated riverside town of antiquaires, Le Jardin du Quai is one of the best new restaurants in Provence. Chef Daniel Hebet, who drew rave notices as chef of the Hôtel La Mirande in Avignon, offers an unadorned but sophisticated market-based menu in an appropriate atmosphere of retro chic, complete with an old zinc bar and vintage bistro tables. Sit under Hebet's vine-draped pergola and lunch on grilled asparagus, shaved Parmesan, and fresh herbs. Order the tender, center-cut cod fillet on a bed of warm chickpeas flecked with orange zest as the main course then for dessert a luscious poached white peach in a cinnamon-spiked sugar syrup. The meal, enhanced by a golden Jean-Luc Colombo Les Figuières Côtes du Rhône, is sure to be unforgettable in its delicious understatement.