Kerry, Cork + the Southwest

Kerry, Cork + the Southwest Travel Guide

Description:
If Ireland can be said to have rocked the game out of its cradle and raised it on creamy stout, the brawniest of its brood is Ballybunion, named after the adjacent seaside town in rural County Kerry.

Rory Conner, an artisan cutler, has a studio crammed with rusty blade forms, drill presses, and grinders' wheels, carpeted with metal dust, and looks straight out of the 19th century.

A stand stocked with West Cork cheeses: Ardrahan, Garrigaline, Coolea, Durrus, Gubbeen.

The collection includes medieval-looking churns and old butter-block wrappers with sublime graphics, but the pièce de résistance was an ancient corporate team-building video for the Irish Dairy Board. It's worth the price of admission to see the irony-fre

The shop has a line of sophisticated bags by designer Conor Holden that you won't see anywhere else.

A collection of works by West Cork ceramicists Sara Flynn and Mary Neeson, whose porcelain lanterns are like miniature Mariko Mori sculptures.

An ideal pub with traditional music and the feel of Old Ireland.

The weaver sells her wool and linen throws and wall hangings, along with leather goods.

The hike to the top takes a solid half-hour, but the vistas on the way up are worth it if the visibility is good.

Cork's best artisans and purveyors gather here to sell products like soda bread, organic greens and seafood. The 1780's brick structure's interior was devastated by a fire in the 1980's and has since been restored.

A new-age bar in the Jury Cork hotel with plate glass and sleek iron fireplaces.