Restaurants in Genoa
Hidden off a blind alley, the Antica Osteria di Vico Palla looks like it hasn’t changed in a century, though its current incarnation dates back only 11 years. Wooden tables are set haphazardly under a low ceiling, and a small chalkboard is propped on each to serve as the menu.
The restaurant (formerly named La Bitta nella Pergola) has Genoa's only Michelin star. Order the roasted branzino, thickly sliced and served skin-up with diced potatoes, small olives, and fresh dill.
This stone hut set directly on the water west of the city has been serving lunch and dinner in the same place for 210 years and Gianni Malagoli has owned it for 42 of them, but he recently ceded control of the cooking to his son-in-law, Marco Maistrello.
The ricciola, a fish similar to pompano, is topped with wafer-thin potatoes soaked in olive oil, ringed by olives, then baked in a very hot oven.
Luca Collami's restaurant feels like an exclusive private club. Sugarello—a kind of mackerel—is served raw with basil oil, chopped olive, and red pepper. Or, in contrast, try the equally delicious steamed zucchini flower stuffed with heavily anchovied stockfish.