Edinburgh Travel Guide

While Edinburgh has a number of sights to see much of the appeal of the city is simply soaking up the atmosphere of the Old Town, with its shadowy alleyways that make it possible to imagine what life was like in medieval Scotland, and the New Town, with its orderly Georgian elegance. Travelers in search of Scottish goods—tartan scarves, ties, and, of course, kilts and skirts; wool sweaters; smoked salmon—will find the country's best selection here. Princes Street and George Street will satisfy most shoppers. Don't forget to leave time to soak up the atmosphere at a local pub in the evening. Some sights not to be missed:

National Museum of Scotland. Eclectic exhibitions range from woolly mammoths to the lives of Scottish Enlightenment figures.

Scottish Parliament. One-hour tours are free but should be booked in advance.

Princes' Street. Come here for shopping and the views of Edinburgh Castle.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery. 30,000 works include Scottish icons like Mary, Queen of Scots and Robert Burns, as well as 6,000 photographs of contemporary figures.

Calton Hill. Climb to its peak to take in the 19th-century monuments and city views.

Rent a Mini Cooper S—a sporty classic that hugs the winding Scottish roads nicely.

Formerly the reception room of the Scotsman, one of the country's national newspapers, this galleried, oak-paneled space is now a civilized hotel bar. Order a French martini with Hendrick's gin beneath the two-story marble pillars.

Tour this warren of recently opened underground alleyways for a fascinating account of the city's past (victims of the 1644 plague died here) and a firsthand look into restored 17th-century town houses.

The glass cases in this boutique are stocked with notable estate pieces like vintage square-cut emerald necklaces and antique gentlemen's pocketknives; the shimmering tourmalines, black opals, and mother-of-pearl items range from astronomical to within reach.

Every summer, en route to Balmoral from Buckingham Palace, Queen Elizabeth II stops at this spectacular, if lesser-known, 16th-century royal residence to host an annual Garden Party.

This Edinburgh neighborhood is dominated by Georgian architecture and lined with cafés and boutiques.

Edinburgh's most glamorous set congregates at the city's buzziest club under the Tigerlily Hotel. The black-and-rose wallpaper is embedded with Swarovski crystals, and top mixologists shake, muddle, and stir while DJ's spin a mix of Latin and techno.

Established in 1842, this bottler deals in fine aged single-cask whiskey from distilleries like Banff, Glenlivet Minmore, and Royal Brackla; the naturally caramel-colored, concentrated liquors are of a rare quality.

Top fashion houses commission Rohde's cashmere handiwork. The designer, who only works with the finest yarns from Scotland in her town-house atelier sells discounted elbow-length gloves and sweaters in candy colors. Call ahead for an appointment.

The hottest contemporary-arts gallery in the city once housed a 1938 produce market; now displayed are the works of Scottish artists like Christine Borland and emerging international talents. The chic industrial café is great for people-watching.

A 10-day celebration of film, theater, and food that takes place along the Edinburgh harbor.

In a funky chandeliered lounge known for the Adidas sneaker collection displayed above the bar, sip an Ape Expectations (local Monkey Shoulder Whiskey, maple syrup, and fresh mandarin orange juice).