Square One, Ho Chi Minh City

In a city where hotel restaurants are decidedly lackluster, this (along with the Park Hyatt’s other great dining room, Opera) is a remarkable exception: for its confident service; its striking but not distracting interior design featuring latticework screens, dramatically lit displays of fresh produce, and private nooks; and, not least, for the food. The kitchen does particularly well with Vietnamese starters (try the palm-heart salad) and with gloriously fresh seafood, which comes straight from the tanks on display; arrive early for maximum selection. There’s also a grill for top-grade steaks, chops, pork, and Wagyu beef.