Chile Travel Guide
Ona is a gold mine for one-of-a-kind Chilean keepsakes such as ox-horn necklaces, alpaca scarves, and cacique ponchos.
The winery's restaurant offers lunch among the vines with a sophisticated spin on Chilean standards: fried congrio, a local fish, comes with a frothy Chardonnay sauce; lamb chops are seasoned with rosemary, mint, and (rather unexpectedly) kumquat.
Top Tip: Take a road trip from Putre, in the north, to Visviri and back. You’ll traverse the high plains close to the Bolivian border at 12,000 feet. Years as Agent: 16. Specialties: Soft adventure, Chile. Fee: None
Tiny tables, flattering lighting, potent pisco sours (lime juice mixed with grape brandy and foamy egg white), and a friendly, multilingual Dutch owner make for one of the most social pubs in town.
The shop carries Juan José Soto's limited-edition men's wear (like silk-screened denims).
You'll find an array of costume jewelry, books, and antiques.
Everything from the jewelry to the jam to the paintings on the walls is made in Chile. Take home a 22-piece set of cypress-and-alerce (a prized South American spruce) spoons and forks, carved by two sisters from Chiloe Island. A downy baby-alpaca poncho comes from the north.
Chilean architect José Cruz Ovalle (a former sculptor) has created an elegantly sinuous pavilion of curved laminated wood to house the tasting room and production facilities of Viña Pérez Cruz, in the Malpo Alto Valley southeast of Santiago.
In the 1990's, renowned Chilean masters such as Roberto Matta, Nemesio Antunez, and Roser Bru adorned the exteriors of houses with a series of 20 original murals and created the "open sky" museum. From Ascensor Espiritu Santo, veer to the right and follow the art.