Hill Country

The Big Apple has become a barbecue battleground lately, but our award for the smokiest, juiciest cue goes to this big raucous space that seems to have been airlifted from Texas, lock, stock, and smokehouse. Inspired by the legendary Kreuz Market in Lockhart, pit master Peter Daversa smokes his meats low ’n slow over post oak, turning out the juiciest dry-rubbed brisket east of the actual Hill Country, awesome pork links, and big meaty ribs—all served on brown butcher paper with paper cartons of such gourmet trimmings as white shoepeg corn pudding and candy-sweet, bourbon-spiked sweet potatoes.