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Lined with theaters, concert halls, secondhand bookstores, pizzerias and not a single damn tree, the half dozen blocks of Corrientes on either side of Avenida 9 de Julio show Buenos Aires at its most unremittingly urban. Its heyday was in the early to mid 20th century, when the "street that never sleeps" birthed and hosted a flourishing bohemia and tango scene. On the right kind of night, you can still catch echoes of this seedy glamor.

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Avenida Corrientes

Lined with theaters, concert halls, secondhand bookstores, pizzerias and not a single damn tree, the half dozen blocks of Corrientes on either side of Avenida 9 de Julio show Buenos Aires at its most unremittingly urban. Its heyday was in the early to mid 20th century, when the "street that never sleeps" birthed and hosted a flourishing bohemia and tango scene. On the right kind of night, you can still catch echoes of this seedy glamor.