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The simple but elusive art of good meat cooked just right lost a champion last August, upon the death of Luis Acuña, owner and grill-master of this superb Belgrano steakhouse. Among his legacies is one of the tastiest, least healthy dishes ever plonked on a plate: the pamplona, a big hunk of chicken, pork or beef stuffed with cheese and ham.

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El Pobre Luis

The simple but elusive art of good meat cooked just right lost a champion last August, upon the death of Luis Acuña, owner and grill-master of this superb Belgrano steakhouse. Among his legacies is one of the tastiest, least healthy dishes ever plonked on a plate: the pamplona, a big hunk of chicken, pork or beef stuffed with cheese and ham.