Stodgy but beloved, this temple of tradition has undergone some gentle updates since chef Lydia Shire took over in 2001. Sure, dishes like “JFK’s lobster stew,” Dover sole, and baked Alaska remain as they have for decades. But when Shire and her team polished up the restaurant's 19th-century baronial décor, they also brought the menu into the modern century, with items like grilled salmon with black smoked sea salt and spicy horseradish crema. The mix has worked: loyal politicos and captains of industry are today joined by a mix of urbane young diners.
Tip: Tables near the entrance can be cramped, so ask to sit deep in the room when you make your reservation.