Bologna + Emilia-Romagna
Restaurants in Bologna + Emilia-Romagna
Massimo Bottura is the chef who marries sensuous Slow Food preservationism with futuristic invention at the Michelin two-starred Osteria Francescana.
No matter how allergic you are to joyless, pompous restaurants, any eating survey of Parma would have to include this one, especially if someone else is paying.
A rustic trattoria where owner Franco Cimini grills steaks from the region’s bianca modenese cattle. Pair your lunch with a glass of Lambrusco or Sangiovese (drivers: the bottle can be recorked for later).
Say you knew some stylish, young, design-conscious Parmesans. And say they’d just redone an old farmhouse outside the city. Their eat-in kitchen might look like Croce di Malta. The concise menu (supple tortelli, fragile polpettine, silky Bavarian cream) changes daily.
This restaurant has closed.
A platter of sbrisolona sits on a counter inside the front door, a good start. The menu gives the age and maker of the prosciutto (28 months, Leporati), and culatello (20 months, Consorzio di Zibello), another excellent sign.
End the day over a dinner of chef Vittorio Novani's fresh pasta with ricci (sea urchin).
Parma’s best restaurant is inserted in a hotel so plain and weirdly located (on the far side of the ring road that wraps the city) you can’t believe you’ve got the address right. Believe it. Cocchi is supercivilized without even seeming to try.
Food artisan Giancarlo Rubaldi presides over Bar Schiavoni, in Modena’s exquisite covered market. Oblivious to the huge lines, Rubaldi meticulously assembles lunches with care. To start, an artwork of bread, smoked swordfish, and baby tomatoes, with pistachio for crunch.