This meringue-white L’Eixample storefront belongs to Rafa Peña, the 32-year-old current leader of Spain’s bistronomic movement. Reservations are in high demand, and with good reason with dishes like “souffléed” egg with cured ham cream. “I set my lunch menu only after placing morning calls to suppliers to see what’s on sale,” Peña explains. Yes, he enjoys haggling with fishmongers over the day’s bargain catch—such as a pearl-pink chunk of merluza (hake) with an earthy garnish of seared scallions and red chard. The slow-cooked, richly glazed pork ribs here are from pigs reared by a friend. Go for the $26 lunch deal; the value can't be beat.