The Towns of Andalusia

Restaurants in The Towns of Andalusia

Try the grilled gambas at the battered 1893 Bodega San José.

Order the messy, spicy, tomatoey snail casserole as you peruse the faded bullfighting posters.

Here, concealed within an old grocery store, is an eating nook so festooned with comestibles one feels trapped inside a gaudy Andalusian Baroque altar. Only instead of angels’ wings there are tins, jars, and packages.

The decibel level can shake plaster off the walls—then again, a great Andalusian bar routine is as frenzied as corrida moves are slow and controlled.

A weathered 1940’s zinc bar with beautiful azulejos of orange groves on the walls. And to eat, freshly baked Antequera rolls stuffed with salt-cured pork loin and apples, or mounted with Cantabrian anchovies under squiggles of condensed milk.

The tortilla, the seafood noodles, and the dreamy crushed-potato salad drenched in olive oil are better than ever. Since the owner’s son took over and moved the bar here, the place has snapped into focus.