Beast, Portland

Beast, Portland

5425 N.E. 30th Ave., Portland, OR 97211

This northeast Portland newcomer isn’t so much a restaurant as a regularly occurring, eccentric dinner party in chef and co-owner Naomi Pomeroy’s exhibition kitchen. Dining is at a pair of communal tables, and there are just two seatings per evening (plus brunch on Sundays). Meals are prix fixe, either five-course or six-course (wine pairings optional), and there’s one nightly menu—no choices, no substitutions. Pomeroy and her talented staff prepare exquisite meals using sustainable, farm-fresh ingredients: recent choices included lamb loin chop with nectarine salsa, duck-fat roasted potatoes, and French green beans; and a rustic duck liver pâté with a tangy Seville orange marmalade. The to-die-for desserts might include a rhubarb-caramel upside-down cake with strawberry-tarragon ice cream.

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