Since chef Ann Cashion first opened this upscale Southern comfort-food joint in 1995, it's become a neighborhood institution. Her menu, with its New American emphasis on the local, sustainable, and organic, translates to equal parts uptown and down-home on the table. Here, pan-fried sablefish meets deep-fried okra; firm wild mushrooms are paired with liver sauce and polenta; and crunchy veal sweetbreads nestle in a bed of sautéed greens. (Rib-eye steaks are cut from bison, of course.) The dining room is unfussy and appealingly down-at-the-heels, with thrift-store chandeliers casting a warm glow.
Tip: On weekends, eggs and bacon—and a seat by the floor-to-ceiling windows—make a sunny, lazy start to the day.