L’Agrume

Tout Paris has been flocking of late to experience the zingy, citrus-inflected cuisine of this 2010-opened restaurant. Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi is a veteran of such haute kitchens as Le Bernardin, in New York; here, he and his bubbly wife embrace a more casual vibe, offering vigorous welcomes, generous pricing, and such unexpected delights as ginger-seaweed scallop carpaccio and an ethereal grapefruit soup ringed with an emerald puddle of basil oil. Call ahead and ask for comptoir (counter) seats.