Spring

Daniel Rose’s excellent Paris adventure has all the ingredients of the best-selling expat tale: smart kid from Chicago opens a restaurant in Paris to instant acclaim, then closes the restaurant at the peak of its popularity. His newest incarnation of Spring is the most anticipated opening of 2010, and it pushes the concept of “integrated” restaurant as far as it can go: The kitchen is completely open and occupies a quarter of the main floor space, where there are only 22 seats. Downstairs is a first-come/first-serve wine bar where you order food, tapas-style, with your vin. Rose describes his technique as “flash cooking”; he creates “thoughtful dishes,” such as sea bass with foie gras sprinkled with radish shavings moistened with broth or peaches bathed in vervain and sprinkled with cocoa shavings, composed depending on what looks good at the market—and his culinary whims du jour. Open 12 p.m.-3 p.m.; dinner from 8 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.