Italy’s top chefs seem to agree that all roads lead to you-know-where, with a clutch of new restaurants relocating to the Eternal City.
Chef Oliver Glowig was the first to make the move to Rome with his namesake restaurant at Aldrovandi Villa Borghese(dinner for two $250), serving inventive Mediterranean dishes, including spaghetti all’amatriciana with prawns and tomato sorbet.
Chef Lucio Sforza relocated his renowned L’Asino d’Oro(73 Via del Boschetto; 39-06/4891-3832; dinner for two $160) from the historic Umbrian town of Orvieto. Tables at the 40-seat restaurant—known for rustic regional specialties such as wild boar—have become the most requested in town.
Up-and-comer Giuseppe De Rosa made a shorter journey—just across the city—to open the sleek Brò Porta Portese(2-3 Largo Alessandro Toja; 39-06/581-3500; dinner for two $140), which showcases his distinctive takes on local favorites such as smoked eggplant with roasted octopus and crisp Parmesan chips.
Gastón Acurio dishes on his favorite places to enjoy the big blue’s bounty.
With 30 restaurants worldwide, 20 books, and a weekly TV show to his name, celeb chef Gastón Acurio has become something of a seafood hero. Fresh off the opening of New York’s La Mar Cebicheria Peruana(11 Madison Ave.; 212/612-3388; dinner for two $100)—the seventh outpost of his hit Lima restaurant—he filled us in on his favorite seafood spots around the globe.
Lima, Peru “At Chez Wong, a tiny ten-table dining room by the side of his own house, chef Javier Wong uses just two ingredients, flounder and octopus, and one knife and one wok.” Don’t Miss: “Everyone gets a flounder ceviche starter; then he will talk to you about your life, and prepare the main course especially for you. He never repeats a recipe.”
New York City “Chef Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin is a reference point when you talk about excellence in fish. He’s about elegant simplicity and coaxing out different flavors within the same ingredient.” Don’t Miss: “The fluke ceviche sampler, which moves from light to complex flavors. It was such an experience to have one kind of fish presented in a variety of ways.”
Getaria, Spain “At Elkano, a family-run place on the Basque coast about an hour’s boat ride from San Sebastián, they work with the catch of the day and respect it so much they serve every part of the fish, from the muscles in the mouth to the belly.” Don’t Miss: “The specialty is turbot. You might get the head in white wine, then the tail grilled.”
Sydney is joining the ranks
of various Asian cities by giving the bland, cafeteria-style food court some
high-end treatment. Think classy food bars and chic décor inviting shoppers to
actually linger over lunch instead of wolf it down.
This year marks the 80th birthday of abstract German painter
Gerhard Richter, and London’s Tate Modern is paying homage with “Gerhard
Richter: Panorama,” an expansive retrospective of the artist’s career across
the past five decades. Richter’s work can’t easily be pegged to one aesthetic,
and the exhibit (opening October 6) — featuring photograph-based portraits,
landscapes, glass constructions, works on paper and color charts—displays the
full range of his often politically-charged collection.
Have you ever wondered what it may be like to sit and enjoy a drink from the
top of a multi-storey car park? Probably not, but if you have then you can
indulge your musings now through Sept. 30 at Frank’s Café atop a car park in South London's Peckham neighborhood. Classy!
Leading Korea's new culinary wave is Jung Sik Dang,
where chef Jung Sik Yim takes local ingredients to prepare dishes like kimchi
consommé, pork jowl with yuzu, and even an amuse bouche with grasshoppers. Less
experimental is Bistro Seoul, which presents Korean standards in an austere space. While Japanese and Chinese have
long happily paid through their noses for expensive renditions of their
cuisines, Koreans—like Thais—are just experiencing the phenomenon of taking
familiar fare, gussying it up, and serving it in lovely locations. It’s not
fusion, but modernization. You’re seeing this elsewhere in Asia—KL has some notable modern Malay restaurants. And while the Thais are kicking and screaming about this trend,
other parts of Asia are embracing it.
Chen is Travel + Leisure's Asia correspondent. You can follow her on
Twitter at xiaochen6.
Is ordering delivery to the office your idea of going locavore? Do your culinary travels consist of drive-thru windows after a long day of work? If yes, then we invite you to put down the plastic fork and check out this different kind of job: meet Diego Felix, nomad chef.
Last month saw the opening of Rogue 24, a new restaurant by James Beard Award-winning chef RJ Cooper, in Washington D.C. Chef Cooper, previously the chef de cuisine at D.C.’s acclaimed Vidalia, was inspired to create his own restaurant concept after “going rogue” at his former post—creating a new, 24-course tasting menu for Vidalia diners.
If you follow the dusty, pebble-scattered dirt road to Playa
Langosta from Tamarindo on Costa Rica’s dense Pacific coast, you’ll
observe a small stop sign jutting from tropical foliage, demanding you to halt—for
tacos. The sign serves equal parts recommendation and warning, as it’s
the last place to catch a bite before Tamarindo’s ubiquitous eateries
give way to Langosta’s private beach estates.
Perennially recognized as the gold standard of gastronomy,
Spain’s Michelin three-star El Bulli will shutter its doors on
July 30th and prepare for its transformation into a culinary research
foundation and think tank (at least until 2014). For the mass of foodies never
fortunate enough to take in chef Ferran Adrià’smastery of molecular gastronomy—only a few thousand palates are so lucky
every year—a peek into his world of foams, mousses and nouveau hybrid dishes
can still be had via the silver screen.
Bulli: Cooking in Progress debuts at New York's Film Forum tonight, the kickoff of a 10-city tour. The film pulls back the curtain and invites viewers along for
Adrià’s journey from his experimentation
lab in Barcelona—El Bulli closes for six months every autumn so its chefs can
invent the following year’s menu—to the launch of a new season at the world’s
most renowned restaurant on the Costa Brava. Adrià’s imaginative methods are on full display as he deploys
thermo-mixing, vacuumizing, de-juicing, blanching and a vast range of other cooking
techniques en route to a nightly 30-course-plus dinner menu. For many, it will be the first and last opportunity at a glimpse inside an eatery that's stamp on modern cuisine will never fade.
here for a full list of tour dates and cities.
Nate Storey is a research assistant at Travel + Leisure