Many who love Provence are familiar with Château La Coste, which produces
some of the region’s best-known rosé. But what many do not know (yet) is that
since the vineyard was taken over by an Irish businessman, in 2002, not only
have the wines gone organic, the sprawling domain has become the most ambitious
art and architecture complex in France—and perhaps in all of Europe.
The idea: to bring together art, wine and architecture in a way
that is organic and site-specific, yet defies easy definition. Too vast to be a
sculpture garden and too diverse to be an art collection, this exceptional
compilation opened without fanfare in June.
The grapes of Napa often grab the headlines coming out of California wine country but the discerning vino cognoscenti knows that the Golden State harbors some of the best wineries in the world along its central coast. In the thick of it is Paso Robles, a vast countryside of rolling vineyards where vintners sport rustic spurs on their cowboy boots and the pace of life is calm. The annual Harvest Wine Weekend kicks off today, Friday, and promises to be the most robust yet. Over 150 wineries will host grape stomps, tours, tastings, dinners, and pairings (wine and bacon anyone?). One oenophile who will be traipsing around Harvest is Paso Wine Man (above)—the unabashed, vivacious Paso wine country cheerleader whose verve for the region’s splendors knows no bounds.
T+L caught up with the wine man before the big weekend to uncover his wines of choice; find out what makes “Tuscany with cowboys” so special; and why Paso Robles's brand of reds can’t be made anywhere else.
Once-gritty Jægersborggade, a cobblestoned thoroughfare in Copenhagen’s Nørrebro district, has been transformed by locals selling everything from house-made candy to flea-market treasures.
Arrive early at the compact café Meyers Bageri, owned by a cofounder of Noma (S. Pellegrino’s best restaurant in the world for 2011). The pumpkinseed rye bread and cinnamon buns made with organic Nordic flour often sell out by 9 a.m. No. 9; 45/3918-6900; breakfast for two $15.
Coffee Collective brews a clean cuppa using direct-trade beans from the developing world that are hand-roasted on site. Learn DIY techniques during one of its monthly courses. Coffee for two $6.
dinner parties with random strangers—is popping up around Singapore. Three supper
clubs that are on the radar: Ping’s
Illegal Diners Club run by food consultant focused on healthy eats; lolla’s secret
suppers, hosted by champagne importers; and Social Candy, a network of
like-minded amateur cooks. Locations change with each event and diners sign up
via Facebook. It’s an eye-catching trend in a country that’s such a stickler
for rules; we’ll see if it goes anywhere.
On the northeastern side of Lake Michigan, Traverse City is a hip little town that has exploded in recent years with new wineries, a slew of fantastic farm-to-table restaurants, and its very own Michael Moore-founded film festival. Surrounded by lush farmland, vineyards, and pristine beaches, the area is still blissfully under-the-radar. But not for long: with summer-resident and star chef Mario Batali singing its praises, Traverse City’s on the rise.
BEST MEAL: Located in the historic Bowers Harbor Inn on Old Mission Peninsula, Mission Table reopened in 2010 after a major renovation and menu overhaul. Their commitment to local, sustainable ingredients is evident in their ultra-seasonal farm-to-table fare.
And having also grown up in Australia and the Middle East, it’s no surprise Melanie’s world view is big—one that’s surely influenced and helped cultivate her good eye (and her good taste). Few know, however, that before her start in the travel industry, she worked as an editor at Vogue Australia.
Today, Melanie officially returns to her early professional roots with the launch of The Travel Curator. The new website is her little black book of favorite finds from the road. Think of it as the short list or cheat sheet (hotels, restaurants, shops, more) for the world’s top luxury destinations mixed with smart trend coverage.
The first city in the spotlight? Sydney, of course. Melanie tips readers off to everything from a Surry Hills boutique renown for its custom textiles to what she calls “the best food truck in the Southern Hemisphere,” which sells meat pies with all the fixings around the clock. “Believe me, at 2 a.m. it’s just what the doctor ordered.” We do, Melanie!
Food and wine festivals are becoming a ubiquitous fixture in every self-respecting dining destination, but until recently, the City of Angels had little to call its own.
Enter the first-annual Los Angeles Food & Wine (LAFW), presented by American Express Publishing (T+L's parent company): a four-day (October 13-16) festival that features more than 50 culinary events across four neighborhoods. From a California clambake in Santa Monica with chef Tom Colicchio, to a red carpet VIP event and pork and pinot noir party hosted by chef Todd English, to a musical performance by Train, the festival promises to levy L.A.’s megawatt star power while showcasing its considerable dining chops. We got the scoop from LAFW’s co-founder, David Bernahl.
Q:How did the LAFW come about? A: There are all these rock star younger chefs that are really leading the culinary world right now, and we knew from experience that this is the best way to get people interested in food and wine. We set out two years ago to start creating something that was deserving of the city.
To drive past the soaring modern barns and lush pastures of Arethusa Farm Dairy in Litchfield, Connecticut, is to think: lucky cows. Light-years away from the rustic dairy farms that dot the nearby hills, Arethusa is the creation of Manolo Blahnik USA co-owners George Malkemus (president) and Tony Yurgaitis (vice president). These two sophisticated and urbane gentlemen have applied the same creative vision to—well—milk that the brand does to the curve of an insole or the proportion of an ankle strap. With the addition of a pristinely elegant creamery shop (822 Bantam Rd.; 860/361-6600) in nearby Bantam, ice cream, farmer cheese, Camembert, and yogurt are also for sale, providing a gastronomic experience as well as an aesthetic one. It’s all the proof we need that true style can be applied to anything.
Everyone has someone they admire—a certain chef, musician, or adventurer, perhaps. Here’s the chance to get up close and personal with your hero.
For the Foodie: The new gastronomic tour from renowned French chef Guy Savoy begins with lunch at his Paris restaurant (he’ll be there to greet you), where the menu is tailored to your next destination. This month, you’ll get whisked away on a jet to an oyster farm in Brittany; in November, you can create your own Cognac in Charente. The intimate trips end back where they started, with a meal hosted by the chef. From $7,000 (all-inclusive); Oct. 26–28 and Nov. 16–18.
For the Music Lover: At Hollywood, California’s Rock ’n’ Roll Fantasy Camp, you’ll form a band, get pointers from Kiss’s Paul Stanley, and take the stage at the Gibson Showroom. Leather pants not included. From $6,000 (includes most meals, a recording session, and evening activities); Nov. 10–13.
For the Space Junkie: Buzz Aldrin—the second man to walk on the moon—will speak to starstruck guests at Soneva Kiri by Six Senses Thailand, as part of the Exploratory Talkers’ Tables series. Doubles from $3,100, including meals; April 8, 2012.
Small-batch breweries are mixing in inventive autumnal ingredients. Here, a taste of the season’s best.
Autumn Maple Where to Try It:The Bruery, Placentia, Calif. Tasting Notes: This Orange County brewery, in a former warehouse, has made headlines for its creative brews—including this sweet and spicy one made with 17 pounds of yams (yes, yams)—plus cinnamon, nutmeg, molasses, and maple syrup. 715 Dunn Way; 714/996-6258.
Fuego del Otoño Where to Try It:Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales Café & Brewery, Ann Arbor, Mich. Tasting Notes: Head to the brewery’s laid-back restaurant for a sample of its annual fall release, a blend of anise, cinnamon, and Michigan-grown chestnuts that’s aged in oak barrels. The deep flavor also features the brand’s calling card—a smooth sourness, thanks to a special yeast. 311 S. Main St.; 734/913-2730.
Punkin Ale Where to Try It:Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats, Rehoboth Beach, Del. Tasting Notes: Pumpkin beer should complement pie, not taste like it. Luckily, founder Sam Calagione has mastered restraint: the taste of the fresh fall squash and hints of cinnamon and allspice are noticeable yet subtle—and are best enjoyed at the cozy brewpub. 320 Rehoboth Ave.; 302/226-2739.
Golden Delicious Where to Try It:Captain Lawrence Brewing Co., Pleasantville, N.Y. Tasting Notes: This gold-toned beer isn’t technically made with fruit—but a stint maturing in apple-brandy barrels at a cozy brewery lends it cider-like sweetness and a tart bite. 99 Castleton St.; 914/741-2337.
Babayaga Where to Try It: At events throughout the Northeast. Tasting Notes: Some of the barley malt in this stout—from the roaming brewery Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project—is smoked over rosemary. Who says the herb is just for hearty fall fare? 617/682-6419.