Food + Drink
It’s a city of pop-ups. San Francisco has bred a myriad of mobile food entrepreneurs who blog, tweet and serve up everything from ramen to fish tacos to loyal customers willing to hit the sidewalk. That’s about to change—slightly. Recently, some pop-ups have gone permanent, shouldering leases and outfitting commercial spaces. A few of the city’s newest restaurant fixtures? Radio Africa Kitchen (below), which serves creative Ethiopian food, recently opened up shop in Bayview. Meanwhile, the super-popular ramen/boba tea spot Ken-Ken Ramen has launched in the Mission. If deli is your thing, don’t miss the outpost of Wise Sons Delicatessen (above)for some of the city’s best bialys and challah.
Three things you didn’t know about the host cities of this month’s political confabs.
It’s the birthplace of the Cuban sandwich, invented in the suburb of Ybor City in the 19th century by cigar-factory workers, who stuffed flaky white bread with ham, pork, salami, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles. Try one at the Columbia (2217 E. Seventh Ave.; $), Florida’s oldest restaurant.
Set on the waterfront, Bayshore Boulevard has the world’s longest continuous sidewalk, measuring 4 1/2 miles. It’ll take you by the marina and some of the city’s most historic houses.
First you have to learn to pronounce it, so that years from now, when you are old and gray, standing at a counter and in need of the magical potion, it will sound right: granita, rhymes with margarita. If you’re in Italy, you have to add di caffè, a coffee granita. (I won’t discuss other flavors such as lemon, which are also classics.) Here is what it looks like at the Antico Caffè Greco (86 Via dei Condotti; 39-06/679-1700), in Rome: a chalice of frosted silver, bearing a small mound of frothy brown ice with a generous dab of whipped cream (real cream). The recipe is something of a secret (it consists of water and coffee, some sugar—not too much—and in some cases a bit of liqueur). Italians say, “Anche l’occhio vuole la sua parte”—the eye wants its share, too. When I see a granita coming toward my marble-topped table on a hot day, the sight alone makes my temperature drop. The fresh flavor of chilled coffee fills my mouth as the ice melts and mixes with that rich, room-temperature cream. It is a completely addictive combination. I have to have one every summer afternoon when I’m in Rome, at around four, an antidote to the heat.
Photo by Andrea Wyner
Want to celebrate the last days of summer in the Hamptons? There's no better place on Long Island than The Fork. T+L Deputy Editor and local Amagansett resident Laura Begley Bloom laid out a comprehensive road map that leads readers to mellow seafood shacks, rustic antique shops, and beach chic boutiques in the July issue of Travel + Leisure. But what would summer on the East End be without a little imbibing? Hop over to our new Weekend Getaways section for a guide on what and where to drink in the Hamptons burgs.
Nate Storey is an editorial assistant at Travel + Leisure.
Photo by Nate Storey
Shanghai urban planners rival their New York real estate agents in their imaginative renaming of neighborhoods. Some have been flops: Sinan Mansions and the South Bund are still largely deserted, the latter despite the industrial-chic Waterhouse and a solid restaurant by Jason Atherton. I’m now hearing that the area around the Rockbund Art Museumis shaping up to be an emerging ‘hood. (It’s called, rather unimaginatively, Rock Bund.)
As predicted by T+L’s editors this January, things just got a little better for frequent-flying gourmands.
Jamie Oliver recently opened a restaurant area (a bakery, a bar, and an Italian eatery) at London Gatwick, joining the growing ranks of chefs extending their empire into airports (Gordon Ramsay’s 4-year-old Heathrow cafe, Plane Food, offers both sit-down meals—timed menus and leisurely menus—and takeout “picnics” to enjoy on the plane. A host of haute cuisine celebs, including chefs Michael White, Anne Burrell, Andrew Carmellini, have created menus for new cafes in Delta’s Terminals C+ D at New York’s LaGuardia. Terminal 2 at San Francisco International features restaurants from Chefs Cat Coura and Tyler Florence, as well as a room dedicated to yoga for those craving spiritual food.)
It was 1925 when Harry’s New York Bar, the famed American cocktail oasis in Paris, served the first French hot dog. Now, nearly a century later, a new spot in the City of Light takes on chien chaud. Yannick Alléno, the Michelin-starred head chef from Le Meurice, recently launched his first bistro in the imposing Art Deco institution Maison de la Mutualité in the 5th. Terroir Parisien (24 rue Saint Victor), which opened in March, serves seasonal Parisian fare and specialty dishes like mackerel in white wine and sole gratin with duxelles. But the menu highlight is the headlining “Parisian hot dog,” made of veal and served in a crusty baguette. Be advised: the popular veau chaud sells out early—customers should arrive before noon to score one of these gourmet dogs.
Tina Isaac is Travel + Leisure’s Paris correspondent.
Photo by Jean-François Mallet
Take it from a regular visitor: Boston’s dining scene is having quite the moment. And while the South End has long been my go-to nabe for quality fare, Cambridge is ready to steal back the spotlight. Just off MIT’s campus, Kendall Square has become the sudden hotspot for chefs with lofty ambitions. If you must choose among all the newcomers to the area, book your table at West Bridge, where chef Matthew Gaudet has hit the ground running.
The Campbell Apartment: Grand Central's Sexiest Secret from GloboMaestro on Vimeo.
Flapper's Delight, Robber Baron, Kentucky Ginger, Prohibition Punch: you'll find these vintage cocktails at Campbell Apartment, a semi-secret 1920s-style bar in New York City's Grand Central Terminal. Once the private office and salon of early 20th-century finance mogul John W. Campbell, the prodigious room is filled with sumptuous red leather chairs, elaborate ceiling designs, and even a vintage popcorn machine (that doesn't just serve as decoration: free bowls of popcorn sit atop the wooden bar). Depending on how many cocktails you have, you might see Jay Gatsby romancing a flapper in the corner. Cheers!
Corinne White is an editorial intern at Travel + Leisure.
Some of us go to Italy to spend a day (or three, or more) swooning over Caravaggios and Berninis, but all of us, deep down, go to Italy to eat. How better to get swept up in la dolce vita if not via the country’s legendary cuisine? And if food is your calling, follow my example and book a night (or three, or more) at Antica Corte Pallavicina.
Think of it like Italy’s Blue Hill Stone Barns: Michelin starred, a half hour away from the city (Parma), and an idyllic country retreat where there’s nothing better to do than indulge. Housed in a lovingly restored 800-year-old palazzo formerly owned by a noble family of salt traders, there are six rooms with original frescoed ceilings and names that hark to the original residents (Stanza del Duchi, for instance, is named for Count Sforza and his wife Bianca, who visited in 1447).