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How to Drink Espresso Like an Italian

how to drink espresso

A Roman institution since 1938, Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè brews 2,000 cups of espresso a day. Co-owner Roberto Ricci shows us how to fit in with the caffeinated locals.

Order: Approach the cashier and say, “Un caffè, per favore.” Or, to make it a double, “un caffè doppio.” Hand over your euros, and make sure to keep the receipt.

Stand: An espresso will cost about three times as much if you sit at a table—a dead giveaway that you’re not from around here. Find an opening at the bar and give the bartender your receipt.

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6 Great Après-Ski Traditions Around North America

Basecamp

After an invigorating day on the slopes, who doesn’t love a good après-ski drink or bite? Each of these hotels takes the tradition to a whole new level, with fun activities and tasty tipples.

The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe has a “marshmologist” on hand every evening leading the Art of the S’more program. The whole family learns how to roast the perfect marshmallow, and adults can enjoy the delicious S’moretini. On the other side of Lake Tahoe, newcomer Basecamp (pictured) offers its guests plenty of beer pairing options, including beer and beef stew, as well as the extremely popular beer and croute au fromage (a hearty Swiss dish of melted cheese over toast). Yes please.

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Designer Han Feng's Shanghai

Han Feng

Ask Chinese designer Han Feng what she loves most about her hometown, and she doesn’t hesitate: the art scene. One of her top stops is James Cohan Gallery, in the French Concession. “He’s brought international talent, such as Italy’s Francesco Clemente and New York video artist Bill Viola, to China for the first time,” she says. Feng reveals a few other favorites below.

Eat

“In the morning, I often head to the intersection of Changle and Xiangyang North Roads for a hearty meal fresh off the outdoor stoves: pan-fried breads; Chinese churros; steamed buns with different fillings.”

“The classic Shanghainese cuisine at Fu 1039 ($$), in the Changning neighborhood, is simply amazing. They serve delicious pork stew in a two-layer ceramic pot filled with water so the meat stays tender.”

“Hidden in a tiny basement, Old Jesse (41 Tianping Rd.; 86-21/6282-9260; $$) is the place to try home-style cooking. I always recommend the fried scallion codfish.”

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Crowdsourcing: What to Do When You're Near the Arc de Triomphe, Paris


View Arc de Triomph in a larger map

The Arc de Triomph is worth the climb to the top for prime views of Paris. We asked true travel pros what to do nearby. Want to share your expertise? Join our community on Facebook at facebook.com/travelandleisure and at Twitter @TravlandLeisure.

“Shop for antique lamps at Philippe de Beauvais (112 Blvd. de Courcelles), seen in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris.” —Neil Jaehnert, via Facebook

Plaza Athénée has five amazing restaurants (Alain Ducasse is the executive chef).” —Yaron Yarimi, via Twitter

“Even non-pilots can play poker at the private Aviation Club de France (104 Ave. des Champs-Élysées), for a fee.” —Leslie Grandy, via Facebook

“Eat oysters on the terrace at Marius et Janette (4 Ave. George V).” —Dominique Couturier-Heller, via Facebook

“Parc Monceau is the perfect place for a stroll. Don’t miss the gilded gates.” —Lindsey Tramuta, via Twitter

“You can rub elbows with diplomats at Hilton Arc de Triomphe Paris’s Purple Bar (51/57 Rue de Courcelles).” —Meg Towner, via Facebook

Santiago's Culinary Scene Heats Up

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Watch out, B.A.Santiago is South America’s new culinary capital. Our tip sheet.

Snacks

Head to the buzzy Barrio Italia neighborhood for an espresso and Chocolatón (a wickedly rich chocolate cake) at Café Emporio Da Noi (1776 Avda. Italia). For pizzas and generous charcuterie platters, wait it out at the scene-y Ciudadano (400 Seminario; $$), where reservations are a tough score. The local music spot Café Bar Cinco Minutos (451 Avda. Santa Isabel)offers a small but standout menu, including a gloriously oozy steak-and-cheese sandwich—often called the city’s best.

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Exploring Vienna's Fashion-Forward Neubau District

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The fashion-forward Neubau district is a hub of inventive boutiques, buzzy restaurants, and the city’s top museums.

Bisovsky: The appointment-only atelier of Susanne Bisovsky, who trained under Vivienne Westwood, sells dramatic couture and ready-to-wear pieces, inspired by traditional Mitteleuropa costume. 13/6 Seidengasse.

Park: This concept store showcases high-profile labels (Martin Margiela; Raf Simons) plus such up-and-comers as Paris-based Damir Doma. You’ll also find art books, Hans Wegner chairs, and brooches made from safety pins. 20 Mondscheingasse.

Lena Hoschek: At the intersection of rockabilly, punk, and Mad Men lies Hoschek’s boudoir-like boutique. The dirndls, dresses, and flowy blouses—ideal for hourglass figures—hit just the right classic-modern note. 17 Gutenberggasse.

Hirsch & Kamel: This new upscale gastropub serves traditional Viennese comfort food with Persian flourishes. Our pick: veal meatballs with pistachios served over mashed potatoes. 6 Stuckgasse. $$

MuseumsQuartier Wien (pictured): The former Hapsburg stables have been transformed into a cultural space with concerts, theater, and plenty of people-watching. Don’t miss the Leopold Museum, home to iconic works by Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. 1 Museumsplatz.

Photo by Hertha Hurnaus

Upcoming SFJAZZ Center Sparks Restaurant Openings

SFJAZZ Center

Attention San Francsico foodies: a wave of new restaurants is hitting Hayes Valley in time for the opening of the neighborhood’s $60 million SFJAZZ Center (pictured), slated for January 2013. Dobbs Ferry is a new bistro that marries West Coast cuisine with old school, small-town New York style. (Owners Scott Broccoli and Danny Sterling hail from Dobbs Ferry, New York and the restaurant pays homage to their East Coast roots).

Schulzies bread pudding

Thai classics are served up at Lers Ros, which has a robust menu featuring unexpected dishes, like garlic frog and chicken entrails with basil. Classic cocktails and seasonal-inspired small plates are the rage at Two Sisters Bar and Books. For the area’s best bread pudding, Schulzies (pictured), an outpost of the Venice location, is a must: the bread bar offers 108 different flavors of the dessert. 


Photos courtesy of Mark Cavagnero Associates and Schulzies 

Crowdsourcing: What to Do When You're Near the Hagia Sophia, in Istanbul


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The sixth-century Hagia Sophia (a basilica turned mosque turned museum) retains its jaw-dropping 180-foot dome. We asked true travel pros what to do nearby. Want to share your expertise? Join our community on Facebook at facebook.com/travelandleisure and at Twitter @TravlandLeisure.

“The most authentic Ottoman cuisine can be found at Matbah (6 Caferiye Sk.; $$), where you can eat on a terrace and look out to Topkapi Palace.” —Mine Demiroren, via Facebook

“Have a rooftop drink at Seven Hills Hotel ($$) for views of boats in the Bosporus and close-ups of Hagia Sophia.” —@mrbaileynyc

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Now Boarding: Robot Bartenders Take Flight

While this robot is no Rosie, airlines are taking tips from the Jetsons with the SkyMax Skytender, an on-board robot bartender.

The Skytender trolley is similar to current airplane trolleys, but works as a mobile drink dispenser. The innovation can prepare up to 15 different drinks, from steaming mugs of coffee to iced tea, and even cocktails. Airlines can choose from over 100 different beverages and flavors, so plan to be surprised.

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Just Back: San Francisco and Wine Country

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Earlier this year, I took a weeklong anniversary trip to San Francisco, Napa, and Sonoma with my husband, Lee, an academic who gets hives at the thought of anything luxurious. Keeping him comfortable meant mixing extraordinary meals with unexpected finds and cheap local favorites. Here’s the best of our high-low itinerary that kept both of us satisfied.

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